Affiliations: [a] School of Sciences and Physical Education, University
of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand | [b] Faculty of Environment, Society and Design, Lincoln
University, Christchurch, New Zealand | [c] School of Applied Sciences & Allied Health,
Christchurch Polytechnic Institute of Technology, Christchurch, New Zealand
Note: [] Address for correspondence: Dr. Nick Draper, School of Sciences
and Physical Education, University of Canterbury, Private Bag 4800,
Christchurch, New Zealand 8140. Tel.: +64 3 364 2987 Ext. 4193; Fax: +64 3 345
8381; E-mail: [email protected]
Abstract: Rock climbing is an increasingly popular adventure sport with a
growing research base. To date the growth of research and reporting styles has
been somewhat haphazard and as a consequence comparison between studies can be
problematic. The aim of this paper was to make suggestions about a number of
changes that could be made to improve the consistency in reporting between
studies. Included with this paper are two new tables, one each for male and
female climbers. These provide comparative grading scales for use in reporting
for future studies. These tables also provide a suggested framework for
grouping climbers according to their ability. Using the tables researchers
could group the climbers in their study by a category name (lower grade,
intermediate, advanced, elite or higher elite climber) or by a number (level
1–5). In addition, the authors make recommendations about climber
characteristics that could usefully be reported in future to assist comparison
between studies. It would be helpful to readers if the self-reported, highest
lead climbs (on-sight and redpoint) could be reported for a climbing group,
along with the types of climbing regularly undertaken.
Keywords: Rock climbing, grade tables, climbing grades, Ewbank scale, Yosemite decimal scale, sport climing
